Haiti 2014, Day 4: And on the 7th Day They Rested

We woke up excited for the day! We would begin with getting ready for church by putting on our Sunday best, some good walking shoes, and packing a few snacks, a couple bottles of water, some money for offering, and a bible.  After eating some breakfast the adventure began.  We walked from Madame Bernard, the village where the orphanage is located, to Nan Soulette where we planned to worship with old friends.

The walk began down the mountain which is covered with white rock. At the base, there is a market square with rock walled, thatched roof huts; one after another.  On Mondays and Thursdays, locals bring their wares and the entire island comes out to shop for the coming week.  From there, we moved east along the palm lined, sandy shoreline. Family after family were out in their yards, sweeping dirt, heading out to fish, or socializing with neighbors. “Bonjou! Salute!” was heard over and over as we greeted the locals and they greeted us.  After about a half hour of walking, we stopped to meet the rest of Odlin’s family (his mother is a cook at the orphanage). His father, two sisters, and nephew all greeted us at the back door, before we continued our journey. Soon the trail moved off the shore and back onto rock as the elevation began to rise again. 

Nan Soulette’s church is on the highest point of that tip of the island so the trail continued to rise, turn, rise and turn, before opening into the familiar backyard of pastor Mascaree and his family. My first two missions to Haiti were with this wonderful community. Madame Mascaree met us on the porch with her delightful smile held wide and her arms outstretched.  We hugged and kissed, and she then hugged the others with me, before asking where Tom was. Tom is famous on the island, spending much time with several of its communities.  After giving Tom his due adoration and affection, it was then she shared that her husband was down with the new Chikungunya virus that has been hitting so many, and she was just getting better herself after two days of high fevers and illness.  So we continued onward from their home to the church, atop the mountainside. 

Worship was filled with lively, rousing, Jesus-praising. We all clapped and drummed, sang and prayed. Women gave their testimonies and sang songs of thanksgiving. Youth sang songs of adoration.  The entire congregation offered praise, listened to scripture being read, and sang hymns together. Joslin gave the message today and what a message he gave! Just returning from seminary, he shared his experience and showed us his certificate for becoming a local pastor.  Joslin was our cook my first trip out to Ile a Vache, and we had become quite fond of each other. He preached on John 8, reminding us that we have no right to judge others. Jesus asked those who had nothing to hide, to throw the first stone, and of course, no one qualified. As Joslin got excited his arms and voice would both rise. His message was filled with passion, as he closed with “Amazing Grace” being sung in Haitian Creole. I offered prayer after his message and then our team came up and sang “Amazing Grace” in English.

It was wonderful worshipping with all our friends again, as it has been four years since our last visit here  on the island.  Florofkla was now nine now, instead of the little girl who used to woo us all. Her eyes were as big and dark as ever and her beauty remains stunning. Yolanda was also there with her little girl. Her baby was still at breast when we were last there, not yet walking or talking. She has grown into a beautiful girl, resembling her mother in many ways. Our cooks, construction crew, church friends, and more were all there in worship, each excited to see us, and us, excited to see them.  John Gary and Dino said they would be out to see us at market tomorrow in Madame Bernard. Can’t wait to catch up some more.

After worship we took some updated photos and then headed back down the mountain, along the shore and into a boat for our return trip.  After changing into play clothes and eating lunch, we were picked up by the boat for our play time.  We moved across the ocean from one wonder of the world to the next, each time picking up new friends and adding to the number in the boat. By journey’s end, we had added two French girls on internship, a sick elderly man who had contracted the Chikungunya virus as well, and needed a ride to the hospital on the mainland, five or six friends of Odlin’s friends, and two NGO (non-profit government organizations) women from Ireland. The joke in Haiti is “How many Haitians can you fit in a Tap Tap (taxi van)? The answer: “One more.” Ha! The same can be said for boats.  Wonderful people, each of them though. 

Our first stop was called “Lover’s Island” by tourists or “Naked Island” by the locals because of the absence of any flora or fauna.  But talk about stunning! A tiny little island created by a sandbar surrounded by mint green waters, engulfed in hot aqua, crystal clear ocean.  AMAZING!! The boys and Shannon played soccer, while other girls waded in the water. Most of the adults swam in the deeper water, while some walked the shallow shores searching for shells and fossils. A live silver dollar and starfish were found, as well. 

Our next stop was called “KayOla” or “House of Water”. This island was still quite small (we walked its perimeter in less than 20 minutes) but filled with life.  There was a village that filled it from shore to shore. All of the homes were thatch roofed and walled, and young children ran naked all over the island.  It was like going back in history about 100 years. Incredible to experience and be a part of.

Next we rode all the way around the south shore of Ile a Vache and down around its western shoreline where the Abaka Bay Resort can be found. I had stopped here before with my son on our first journey to the island to buy a cold Coke.  That same son returned to the resort with his new wife for their honeymoon the very next year.  But much has changed. New villas abound and a new restaurant on stilts has been added out over the water. Two helicopters were nearby and we were told that the Haitian President’s son was having lunch there today. We went down into the outdoor café and had refreshments and a bit to eat. It didn’t take long for some to return to the water for a last swim of the day before heading back around the island for home.

Our last stop was the only additional resort on the island, “Port Morgan”. It is an amazing French owned sprawling resort made of cut stone and mortar. The covered pavilion rambled on different levels, while the pool included a stone waterfall, in-water bar, and infinity edge. Several men were sitting about watching a World Cup soccer match on a television, the first I’ve ever seen on the island.

We were all wearing out from a day of scorching sun, crystal clear ocean waves, and a rhythmical pattern of climbing over the high walls of the boat to enter and exit along the way.

We returned home by dark, and collapsed around the dinner table to share some of the day’s stories. Then back up the mountain to our house where some played cards, while others settled into conversations about something, and yet nothing at all.  A day of Sabbath to fill the soul, though we probably wore our bodies out more than ever. Tonight we will sleep well, as tomorrow we report back to work, painting and building, comforting and loving.