Haiti 2001, Day 6: Between a Rock and a Hardplace

The walk to Mona's seemed longer today. By the time we arrived, we were all breathing pretty well. Immediately, two Haitian men that were shoveling sand out of a huge truck yelled out "need two men!" So, I looked at the only two men we have on our team: Kevin and Cooley. They looked back like "You're kiddin, right?" Nope. Not kidding. It seemed these guys were expecting us a little sooner and this was Cooley's first day on the work site. But like a trooper, the both of them set down their stuff, and jumped up into the bed of the truck and started shoveling with the other two men.

As for the rest of us, we had a huge pile of rocks to move to the work site. Each one weighed anywhere from 5 lbs to 40 lbs. or more. We left the huge ones for the guys, and carried the rest one or two at a time, depending on the size. We quickly found that setting the largest rock on our left hip with our left hand under it allowed us to grab a smaller one with our right hand. Most of us had nice bruises or small cuts on our hips by the end of the day. But we got the job done. Some were taken to the nearest edge of the foundation, while others had to be taken all around the perimeter of the foundation. With temps nearing 90 today, the 60' treks with the larger rocks was definately a challenge. As soon as the boys were done with the sand, they chipped in and we were done in no time.

Haitian workers had formed the rebar corner posts the day before using four 12' rods. 4'x 4' square braces are threaded over the rods at equal intervals and secured into place with wire wraps. The same re-rod is laid in a grid pattern forming a 15" x 15" square of nine 5" squares, each held in place with wire ties. At each corner of the foundation, plus the corners of the porch, a grid was laid down in each trench, then one of the four posters were stood in the center of it.

All of us then formed a bucket line from the sand pile, where the concrete was being mixed on the ground, to the bossmen laying the re-rod. We began passing buckets from one to another up the line, as other team members handed the correct size rocks to the bossmen, as called for. The bossmen would then place rock by rock like a puzzle over the grid and up against the four posters of re-rod. As the buckets of concrete arrived they would be poured between the rocks, then another rock laid. Again, and again until more concrete needed to be mixed, or that specific corner was complete. Then we would adjust the bucket line longer or shorter to reach the next corner, then the next, until all eight were complete.

At lunch, we were invited to visit a neighbor's home. Val at HAPI had visited at an ealier date and they were concerned that they had not heard back from her. They lost their entire house during the earthquake and had built a temporary home of palm tree planks. The metal corrigated roof had many holes and leaked badly during rains. Wilfred and his wife Nataschia shared how they struggled raising their four children, the youngest just a baby, in such a home. They wanted us to share their story. They felt like they had been forgotten.

Where their house used to be, before the earthquake. Nothing but a remnant now.

Their new temporary home. Not really conducive to hard rains or hurricane winds.

Nataschia and their newest baby standing in the kitchen area of their temporary home.

So I told Wilfred I would share what we had seen with HAPI and asked if we could pray for him and his family. He agreed, so we circled up and held hands with our new sisters and brothers in Christ. We prayed that God would provide a way to build a new home that was safe in all weather. We prayed for patience and perseverance. We prayed for God's blessing upon Wilfred and his family.

As we were leaving their home, we noticed a plush area of grass which is rare in Haiti. So we all laid down in it and enjoyed a moment of rest under God and all heaven. I'm sure Wilfred thought we were crazy. It was a beautiful plot of grass though. Then we returned to our work site and continued our day.

The other team finished laying Gertrude's foundation and picked more rocks. Jerry and Darryl added a long, arduous trek down a steep valley to collect more water for the concrete foundation. A natural spring broke ground with two simple pipes peeking out of the ground. Carrying 5 gallon buckets of water back up the steep mountain trails took more than the guys had planned. One of the Haitians asked Jerry if he was lazy, so Jerry traded him his 5 gallon bucket for the Haitians 3 gallon bucket. The Haitian didn't ask the question again. Their team was able to form up the porch at Gertrude's, as well.

Another delicious dinner. Another night of the band practicing the night away. New friends made. Exhausted bodies collapse.

Haiti 2011, Day 5: The Work Begins!

We were all ready for work. It kinda felt like we played way more than usual by now, but playing is part of the relationship building in Haiti. The need to produce, produce, produce is all American!

Teams were already determined last night, but morning changed that. Whitney woke with feelings of both nausea and stomach cramps. We got her started immediately on antibiotics and then searched out a puke bag. A half torn empty cement bag did the trick, so we sent her to the outhouse with bag in hand, in case there was movement on both ends at the same time.

We never leave just one team member back alone, so we determined Cooley needed to fill the position of "Sister's Keeper." He hadn't slept more than four hours since leaving Detroit (total!), so he needed some sleep anyway. Against his will, we assigned him the job and reassigned the teams to still get the jobs done. So assignments ended up being: Darryl, Tom, Kassy, Megan and Nina on Jerry's team. They would be breaking up a cement patio and old foundation, digging a 6" deep by 16" wide trench around a 13' x 13' home, plus an additional porch. The initial work with demolition will be difficult and much muscle will be needed. The foundation depth is minimal because a new form of construction will be used here. Dense foam blocks lock together with cemented re-rod running up the center. It can still be covered with cement stucco and will look like traditional construction, but the hopes are, it will ta

The second team consisted of: Kevin, Sue, Jaime, and Kelsey on my work crew for Mona's house. The work consisted of traditional construction, so they would be digging a 2'deep trench around two 13' x 13' rooms, plus a porch. Each trench needed to be about 12' wide and was made of hardened rock soil. It would first need to be loosened with a pick and then shoveled out. Lava looking dark rust and white rock also needed to be carried from a truck drop off point approximately 30'-60' from the work site walls. Sand would also be shoveled out of a large truck onto the ground to be mixed with cement bags, and then hauled by buckets to fill all the trenches.

With so much work to be done, 28 peanut butter sandwiches were made for protein throughout the afternoon. The Lego House was the closest to get to, about a 20 minute walk. A paralyzed elderly woman, Gertrude lives there with her brother and two nieces. She has been fully handicapped for 11 years now, lying in bed, stiff and writhing in pain with twisted limbs. We also brought along a camp lounger for Gertrude, in hopes her family can carry her outside during the day. The pain she lives in daily must be excruciating, but the isolation from the rest of life is even more heartbreaking.

Mona on the other hand, is a young and vivacious woman, nursing student, and mother of a 5 year old boy. She is one of 8 siblings that had their home collapse in the earthquake. A temporary shelter had been built of palm trees but Mona and her son were still living in a pup tent next to the old house. The new home would be twice the size at 26' x 13'. It sits on one of the most gorgeous breathtaking mountain ridges we have seen. At first, we didn't understand why the porch was on the front side of the house, instead of on the backside facing the spectacular panoramic view of the mountains and valleys below. Our interpreter Harold (Airold) shared that they see that view everyday. They don't think much of it. But porches are for relationships. No wonder it was placed by the mountain trail where friends and neighbors would be walking by. Isn't it funny how we, as Americans, have moved our porches from the street side where we would meet and greet our families and neighbors to the backside where we can find "privacy"? Things that make you go "hmmmm...." The trip to Mona's takes about a half hour, but Wow! What a trip it is. Truly, we go down one mountain and directly up the next. So coming or going, it is still uphill! Maybe these parents were telling the truth when they told their kids they had to walk uphill to school, both ways, each day.

We both had productive work days, getting more accomplished then we had thought we might. Although some demolition was still needed, Jerry's team was glad to find the concrete to be quite thin and crumbly. It made their work much more manageable.

My team had to re-dig two trenches that had been dug in the wrong place before our arrival. Our bossman, Amos (Emos) and Silos (Seelos) were detail oriented and they wanted everything square and to measurement. The other trenches, a total of 110 running feet at 2' deep, 1' wide, were all fini (finished) by the end of the work day. We asked to be taken to the Lego House on our way home to see their progress and found they were digging also. So we spent a couple hours sitting on the ground rock picking. This special foundation needed rocks that were between 1" and maybe 2" in diameter, compared to a traditional construction foundation that needs rocks from 6" to 20" in diameter. So both teams sat, sifting through the gravel that covers so much of Haiti's terrain, filling bucket (boo-ket) after bucket until the bossman told us "fini."

Then Gertrude's brother called us over for a hot delicious smelling pot of rice and black beans. To top it off was the most incredible red sauce I have ever had in Haiti and I have had plenty. The secret ingredient was this fantastic red sausage that hangs in Marche on walls from string. It is about 1 1/2" diameter and has a zesty edge. I have had red sauce plain, with onion slices (most common), and with onion and a bit of meat (pork or chicken) dropped in for flavor. But nothing like this sausage! Delicious!! And did I mention the beautiful table that was set for us? Right there in the middle of the worksite? Two beautiful linens laid out, one with faux mink texture and tassles, the other laid askew underneath. It was so beautiful...and set just for us. So we stood around while enjoying the food, saying "bon bon merci!" (good, good, thank you!) as we rubbed our bellies and smiled.

Seems it may finally rain after at least two months. The clouds darkened overhead and storm was in the air. Jerry thought it best we get back to the compound just in case. In Haiti, you don't want to get caught on the side of a mountain when rain hits. It could sprinkle and stop, but it could also come down like a monsoon creating its own violent set of rivers and streams that take anything in their path, right down the mountain.

So, we settled in for dinner, as the musicians and singers began showing up after school or work for what seemed another all night pratice. Some of the youth danced with Haitian women outside the practice tent, while others sat on Paul's porch getting to know some of the Haitian boys their own age. The boys taught the girls Haitian Creole and the girls taught the boys Englise (English). The rest of us wrote in our journals, listened to the stories, or just kicked back on Paul's porch. All is well. All is well. The work has begun.

We finished the night with devotions most nights, led by a different team member or two. Giving praises to God for all we are learning from others in Haiti, we settled into our bunks for some rest.

Haiti 2011, Day 4: All Praise to the Almighty!

6:00 am and the complex is already bustling. Artisans are showing up to set up their marche (market). Musicians are hauling all the new equipment out of Pastor Paul's house into the Church Pavilion. Breakfast is on bright and early as we all prepare with excitement for the day.

We head out to the Artisans Marche before going to worship. Hand embroidered men's shirts, women's blouses, and table runners. Long strapped purses made of burlap and lined with cotton prints or denim. Everything paid attention to detail. There were pockets in every purse, each with a zipper closure. Small handbags had loops on the back to slide over belts, zippers on top to close, and an embroidered peace dove on the front. There were many paintings, both on canvas and metal. The people of Haiti, carrying buckets on their heads, gathering produce, washing clothes, kids playing, goats on ropes and of course palm trees and mountain views. What a wonderful way to take a little piece of Haiti life home.

Jerry bought a cotton skirt for Erin and a mobile of fish made of paper mache and painted brightly for Scotty's new room. Kassy got a great deal on a carved tea pot, tray and tea cups. Darryl bought a beaded necklace and bracelet, and an embroidered blonde cotton dress shirt for worship. Most of the girls took home a burlap sachel (purse) that slung way down the hip. I purchased one of the burlap sachels, plus an adorable multi-colored hand purse made of candy wrapper litter. Each wrapper was folded and woven into a zigzag pattern and could get wet, due to the plastic nature of each wrapper. I also picked up a paper mache mobile for Dane made of flying hummingbirds for his rainforest bedroom. A beaded shell necklace for Mikayl, embroidered card for Ashley, and a denim embroidered change purse for Erin. Before we knew it, worship was beginning, so we hurried over to the pavilion to join in the singing.

The Haitians beamed as they played the new instruments to the Lord. They sang their hearts out as the entire congregation joined in.

Pastor thanked God for our visit and asked me to introduce the team. Then we sang, and sang, and sang, for almost an hour. Then Pastor asked if anyone had anything to say, a song to sing, or a testimony to give. One person after another stood up and poured their heart and emotion out to God. A young man told us how much God had done in his life and then sang a song to God constantly raising his arms to the sky praising his Savior. An elderly woman said a prayer and sung "Trust & Obey" to God. Two girls came forward and sang, "Lord, I Lift Your Name on High" in Englise (English), and all us Americans chimed in each chorus. Such joy in the air, thanksgiving and grace abounded.

Pastor asked if we had anything to say or sing. So Jerry asked if he could play a song he had wrote and recorded for our church at home. Pastor agreed "WI!" (yes). So I explained how I had asked Jerry to write the song about our values at Concord UMC and how our youth made a video with it. Then Ulrick translated into Haitian Creole. Jerry played "Our Values" on the new sound equipment and everyone cheered afterward. Ulrick then explained how important it is to continue reaching out to the young people and thanked Jerry for doing that with his own music. He also thanked Jerry for helping the church reach out to the young with all the new equipment. Everyone clapped in agreement and thanksgiving.

About an hour and a half into worship, Pastor invited me up to preach. I preached on 1 Timothy 1.12-17, reminding everyone that we've been set free to live a life of goodness and love toward God and neighbor. I used the illustration of animals in Haiti being tied by ropes to weeds and trees in the fields and how God has set us free from sin and death, but we often live like we are still tied up. We continue to eat of the old life: greed, lust, selfishness. Instead, we have been untied and can roam the earth with Christ eating goodness, kindness, mercy and love. When I got to the good news that Satan had lied to us all, making us believe we were still tied up, but in reality we were free through the death and resureection of Jesus, they all started to "Amen!" one after another. I told them to look at their rope. It was neither tied to a weed on one end or their throat at the other, but they were free indeed, free to love God and neighbor. They continued to praise God with "Amen" after "Amen". We finished worship with a few more songs and wrapped up in prayer, led by Pastor Frank. A wonderful beginning to a wonderful day.

Pastor Paul and his wife planned a surprise birthday party for Kassy after worship. As soon as we could break away from all the dancing women in the church, we headed back to Paul's porch for an absolutely incredible homemade cake baked in two solar ovens. The cake was extremely moist and melted in our mouths. The frosting was tinted the exact color of magenta purple that Kassy's shirt and skirt were. No coincidence, I am sure. They saw her get dressed, and must have assumed it was her favorite color. When we asked what flavor was used to make the beautiful color, Ainable (Amob) said, "kool-aid!" We all laughed. We were expecting the name of some exotic fruit or something. Kool-aid. Ha!

Soon we headed out for our first major excursion out of the HAPI compound. Basin Bleu is one of the most increadible natural wonders I have ever happened upon. Others that come to mind are Niagara Falls and a river Jerry had taken us to in North Carolina when we visited once. It was filled with larger than life boulders, creating a picturesque oversize playground of nature.

The trek to Basin Bleu was incredible. We walked up one mountain and down another, from ledge to ledge, slipping on loose rocks, ducking around prickery bushes, all while gasping at the God-given view. Most of the way, we could see the entire city of Jacmel, the ocean, the mountain ranges, and the valley below all at the same time. We kept stopping to take more fotos (photos). It was just so incredibly spectacular.

From a distance, we began hearing the voices of others laughing, playing, enjoying the water. All told, it took amost two hours to actually reach the basin. First we saw small tributaries with creek size river water flowing over small rocks. Women were washing clothes, while others were bathing. Children played oblivious to the beauty of it all. This first basin reached 16' deep.

We continued to follow our local guides, stepping from one rock to the next, until it was time to cross a deeper section. The initial plunge to about thigh high took our breath away in 80 degree air. The tributaries began turning and twisting before heading to the second basin. A guide shared that this basin reached depths of 57'. It was the most beautiful blue shades, from currulean, to aqua, to cobalt, depending on the depth.

We continue climbing and turning, twisting and jumping from rock to rock. And then we climb a concrete formed staircase up and up, and up some more until we are on a ledge no more than 3' wide... and with no safety rails! We all lean in toward the mountain and don't look down much. Next thing we hear, there is a rope we need to repel in order to find the third basin.

Pastor Frank was near the front of the pack and I overheard him say, "That's not a rope! That's twine!" Yikes! Then the news started making it down the line and most seemed quite surprised. So one by one, more than twenty of us repelled the side of the mountain rock about 20' to a huge rock below. Once arriving at the bottom it didn't look nearly as bad as it did from the top.

Then a guide helped each of us walk across a rock covered with rushing water between basin two and basin three. Once across the rushing water, we finally got a glimpse of the largest, deepest basin, the one with a waterfall.

It was incredibly surreal, like something you'd see on a sci-fi movie or something. There was a huge prehistoric boulder that most of us climbed up on. It was surrounded on all sides by water that reached 75' deep. From there you could see the waterfall and the multi-level rocks that reached up to the top of the waterfall. We quickly decided it would be stupid for anyone to jump from these boulders. They were probably 20, 30 and 40 feet from the water. Then, before you know it, we see Jerry making the climb to the 40' one. I thought, "No way! He won't!" But he did. All of us got out our cameras and just waited. A Haitian jumped first. That's all it took for Jer. He looked over the edge then backed up, and then ran and jumped! I couldn't believe it. I got a picture of him in pure flight just so I can show people just how stupid a move it was.

Well, one stupid does, other stupid follows. So Tom climbs up and jumps off the same platform. I just kept saying, "I can't believe they did it!" But surely they had. No one else was quite brave enough to even try it, except Jaime. Jerry was smart enough as team leader to tell her no, not until she was 18 first. Thanks be to God!

So all the girls and Cooley swam around the fall and climbed on the lower platform for diving. Jaime dropped a cannonball that was heard around the world! OUCH!!!

Finally, I got the guts to jump off the large boulder and swim across the 75' deep basin to the falls and jump from the lower platform as well. Those who know me wll were quite impressed. I won't even go in the deep end of a pool. But this place was magical. I just couldn't leave without trying. It wouldn't have been right. So we eventually all climbed back up the mountain by using the rope, shimmied back along the 3' wide ridge, climbed down the concrete steps, jumped across the boulders and rocks, waded through the basin waters and returned to the mountain trails whence we came. We had hired a van to pick us up because we were told the return walk took upwards of 3 hours all up hill. The 2 hour mostly downhill trek there about killed us, so we were really proud of our decision at the this point... well, until we saw our van.

It was basically a mini van with seating for about 12. We had 23! So we piled in, hip, to hip, to hip, and were still about four short. We began placing the lighter girls on two laps each, the left thigh of one and the right thigh of another.... up a very bumpy mountain road. It took waayyy longer than anticipated due to the extra weight on board. There was no spring left and the body sat down near the tire tread. By the time we reached home, eight of us had numb thighs, while four had sore heads from occasionally hitting the roof. Had some great conversations though with our many new friends. What an experience. What a basin. What a day!!